Fibre Identification

The type of fibre used to make a fabric can have a big impact on how the fabric will perform in different situations. For example, care and dyeing of fabric is significantly impacted by fibre content. In this post I will use the tried and true method of a burn test to determine fibre content of six different samples and then, based on the fibre identification, suggest how to best use and care for each sample.

Sample #1

Prediction:  Synthetic

Burn Test Observations:  Burned quickly, shrunk up, melted and dripped. There was black smoke and a slight chemical odour. The resulting ash was hard and black.

Identification:  The burn test results are consistent with a synthetic fibre.

Uses: This is quite a stiff fabric that does not feel comfortable. Therefore I would suggest it be used for curtains or other decorative purposes. As a synthetic it would be strong and durable, as well as resistant to fading.

Care: This fabric should be able to be washed and dried easily. It seems to be quite wrinkle resistant, however if ironing was required I think it would need a low temperature.                                                            

Sample #2

Prediction: Cellulose (Cotton)
Burn Test Observation: Flared and burned quite quickly with white smoke. Continued to glow some after flame gone. Light grey, soft ash that basically disappeared. Slight paper odour.
Identification: The burn test results are consistent with a cellulose fibre.
Uses: Cotton can be used for many things. For this sample I would suggest a cotton summer shirt or dress, possibly for a child given the pattern. It would withstand lots of wear and tear as cotton is strong, and be comfortable to wear as cotton is also absorbent. 
Care: Cotton can be easily washed and dried. The fiber can stand hot temperatures but may shrink if not treated. It takes longer to dry due to its absorbency. It wrinkles easily and a hot iron is required to press.

Sample #3

Prediction: Cellulose (Linen)
Burn Test Observations: Burned quite quickly. Smoke was white. It continued to have a glowing ember after flame gone. There was a slight paper odour. The ash was flakey and dark grey, there seemed to be a small amount of melting.
Identification: This sample performed as I expected for a cellulose fibre at first, but then the ash that developed was not as light and soft as is typical for a cellulose fibre. I conclude that this is a mainly linen fabric, but has also been blended with some synthetic fibre that would explain the darker ash and slight melting.
Uses: This fabric is stiff and crisp as is typical of linen and would be a good choice for a summer suit, or table linens. It would be strong, durable and very absorbent for these uses. It is not as soft as some linen and therefore not a good choice for wearing next to the skin.
Care: Linen often needs to be dry cleaned and wrinkles easily. Other fibres are often added to offset these characteristics and I suspect this is the case with this sample, therefore it may be okay to launder at home but care should be taken. A high temperature would be needed for ironing.



Sample #4

Prediction: This was is a bit of a ringer. I took it from my knitting basket and the label was still there so I know it is 50% llama and 50% wool.
Burn Test Observation: Curled away from flame and did not stay lit when removed. There was a burnt hair smell. The ash could be crushed and was powder like.
Identification: The burn test results were consistent with a protein fibre and confirmed this yarn was what the label said it was!
Uses: This would be a good choice for a sweater, which is what I knit with it. It is warm and absorbent. It does not wrinkle and is perfect to wear to a campfire where it will keep you warm and not likely catch fire if a spark hits it! This yarn could also be used effectively for things like scarves and hats.
Care: Garments made from this yarn would need to be dry cleaned, or very carefully hand washed and reshaped to prevent felting. It should not need to be ironed, but if any ironing was required a low steam setting and a press cloth should be used. When storing, care would need to be taken to keep away from moths.


Sample #5

Prediction: Synthetic (Spandex)
Burn Test Observations: Burned very quickly. Strong, unpleasant odour. Black smoke. Immediately started melting and dripping when put in flame. Ash was hard, bead like and black.
Identification: The burn test results were consistent with a synthetic fibre and quite likely nylon or spandex given the odour.
Uses: This is a very flexible fabric that would be appropriate for sportswear. It retains its shape when stretched, is lightweight and smooth. It is also resistant to perspiration and durable.
Care: This fabric could be hand or machine washed. It would usually be drip dried, if drying in a dryer use a low setting. Ironing would not normally be required.



Sample #6

Prediction: Synthetic (Polyester)
Burn Test Observations: Burned quite quickly. Shrunk away from flame. Some melting and dripping. Ash was hard and bead like.
Identification: I had thought there was a chance this might have been silk but the burn test results were more consistent with a synthetic fibre.
Uses: This is a soft and shiny fabric that would be appropriate for a blouse or dress. Polyester is strong and resists wrinkling. However it is not as absorbent and therefore would not be as comfortable to wear outside in the summer.
Care: Polyester is easy care and can be washed and dried by machine, or drip dried. It tends to build up static and therefore it might be a good idea to use fabric softener.





Resources for Fibre Identification and Care 

CCI Textile Lab. (2010). The Identification of Natural Fibres - Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI) Notes13/18. Minister of Public Works and Government Services Canada. Retrieved from http://canada.pch.gc.ca/eng/1439925170925

Duncan, Beth. (n.d.). Fibre Facts. The Textile Rooms. Retrieved from http://www.textilerooms.com/tecnical/fibre%20content%20labelling/parte%20usa/fiber_fact.html

FabPro. (2016). The Identification of Fibers. Retrieved from http://www.fabpro.com/fiberIdentification.html

Fabric Link. (n.d.). Fiber/Fabric Care. Retrieved from http://www.fabriclink.com/University/GenCare.cfm

The Fabrics Network. (n.d.). Fabric Identification. Retrieved from https://info.fabrics.net/fabric-facts/fabric-identification/

Suggested Activity for Student Learning

There is a good video available on the Online Video Library (Learn 360) section of the Eduportal, available to stream for free to all Nova Scotia teachers, called All About Textiles (Learning Zone Xpress, 2010). The entire video is 27 minutes long, or smaller sections can be shown on specific topics, such as natural fibres or fabric construction techniques. As students watch the video they can fill in this worksheet (outcome listed on worksheet is for Textiles Art 7). I would start by getting students (or another student) to look at the tag of the shirt/top they are wearing that day. As well as providing the information to then use to fill in the worksheet, this would also introduce them to the information they can find on the labels of their clothing. Another thing to draw their attention to on the label would be the care symbols and instructions. If there was time, they could draw the care symbols on their shirt label on the back of the worksheet and explain in words what the symbols are telling them to do. For garments that only have the care written in words, they could do the reverse and draw the corresponding symbols.